Padre, Pasqua, and Other Such Happenings

Buona Pasqua! Happy Easter! It certainly was here in Florence this weekend. Dad and Lin made their way through Venice and Rome last week and arrived in Florence on Saturday morning for a weekend of non-stop touring around the city. It was so much fun getting to play tour guide! Dad pointed out that I was particularly chatty this weekend. I have so much knowledge of Florence and Italian culture and no one to share it with since everyone here already knows everything. From art, architecture, and the Medici family to street etiquette (or lack thereof), balsamic vinegar making, and how to spot good gelato, they certainly got their ears full. So, watch out people, because when I get home, I will bust loose on ya!

I took Dad and Lin around to all of the main sights in Florence and explained as much as I could remember about things as we passed them.

Saturday


The tour began with a stop at the San Lorenzo leather market and the Central Market (see previous posts for the deets on the Central Market). We did some balsamic vinegar tasting, took advantage of the copious amounts of dried fruit, and grabbed lunch. Dad and Lin seemed entertained by the cute man I buy chicken from. He chops meat with more finesse than anyone I've ever seen chop meat; it's a wonder he still has 10 fingers! At one point, he left and came back with what appeared to be the torso of some animal over his shoulder. The Central Market is one of my favorite places to go and I'm so glad Dad and Lin got to experience it!

After our market adventure, Dad and Lin wanted to see Michelangelo's David in the Accademia. The line wrapped around the building but, thankfully, my museum card got us right in. Phew! This wasn't my first time seeing David (he lives about 2 minutes from my apartment and I get in free with my card) but it's always remarkable to visit. It's not my favorite part of the museum, though. In the hallway leading up to the David are Michelangelo's Prisoners of Stone. They are his unfinished sculptures so they look like they are trying to escape the rock (hence the name). Plus, I love seeing the chisel marks because, in many different scenarios, I believe that the process is just as beautiful, if not more so, than the finished product.

A prisoner of stone

No foto!

I then showed them the Duomo, Piazza della Repubblica, (a famous piazza with several caffes that were once frequented only by intellectuals), and the Ponte Vecchio. I finally showed Dad what REAL gelato is. If it isn't made on the premises, it isn't as good and you can DEFINITELY tell the difference. Mmm. Gelato.

Santa Maria Novella was next. It just so happens that, in SMN's piazza, there was a food festival going on. Naturally, Dad bought a Sicilian pastry called sfogliatella (or, lobster tail). I first saw them on Cake Boss and always wanted to try one. Glad I got the chance because, from what I tried, it was quite delicious!

Sfogliatella

After a break at their hotel, we all went to aperitivo at Kitsch, a bar right across the street from my apartment. Aperitivo is an Italian social gathering in which you pay a flat rate for your drink and have access to all the pasta, veggies, meats, and fruit you can eat (buffet style and all prepared in some typical Italian way). The last time I went, the aperitivo was fabulous but, this time, it wasn't as good. Plus, the waitress asked us to move from our table to a bench in the middle of eating our meal (something that didn't sit well at all with Dad or Lin but, hey, that's Italy). We called it a night after dinner.

Sunday


I don't remember the last time I went to a non-contemporary worship service for Easter but, when you're in Italy, good luck finding a contemporary, Protestant church. We attended mass at a small American Episcopalian church. It was very intimate but good.

Scoppio del Caro


This is something I'd been looking forward to since coming to Florence. For Easter, a medieval cart, followed by a procession, marches through town to the Duomo. Thousands of people gather around as the cart "explodes" with fire works for about half an hour. It's insane! At the end, a mechanical dove flies out of the cart. Since the tradition dates back to the Middle Ages, it is said that, if the dove returns, there will be a good harvest this year. If not, it's bad news for everybody. Obviously, since the dove is mechanical, it always returns but we didn't see it anyway because of all of the smoke from the cart.

Piazzale Michelangelo

After the grand explosion ceremony, I took Dad and Lin on a second tour around the city. We started with Santa Croce, a beautiful church wherein lies the tomb of Galileo. This was follower by Piazza della Signoria and the street performers of the Uffizi gallery. Then, we walked down the river Arno, across a bridge, and up tons of steps to Piazzale Michelangelo for a great view of the city. I'd been there before but I never tire of its views. If you ever go to Florence, you need to endure the trek up to the top. It's so worth it!

Cupid at the Uffizi

Piazzale Michelangelo

Trattoria al Trebbio
Easter dinner was at a Tuscan trattoria that my cooking teacher recommended. It was probably one of the best meals I've had since coming to Italy. We all got something (most things typical of Tuscany) and shared.

Risotto di Verdure

Crespelle alla Fiorentina

Ribollita...yum. 

I've mentioned Ribbolita before (it was the first meal I had in Florence) but, it is so delicious, I will explain it again. It's basically Tuscan vegetable soup/stew with cabbage, lots of seasonal veggies, beans, and combined with what was, at one time, stale Tuscan bread. Dad ordered Florentine crepes (crepes with ricotta and spinach) as well as pork with a balsamic vinegar sauce. Lin decided on eggplant parmesan and, since it is Spring, I ordered vegetable risotto (a VERY typical Spring dish in Tuscany). All was delcious and it was a MUCH better dining experience than the previous night!

Monday


Since Monday was a national holiday, Liberation Day (Italy's "Independence Day"), we took a day trip to Cinque Terre (Literally, 5 Lands), 5 small fishing villages built into the cliffs along the coast of the Mediterranean. It took us 4 hours by crowded train to get there but, as Dad put it, the juice was worth the squeeze.

First, we took the ferry to the largest and farthest village, Monterosso. We hiked a bit then climbed a huge rock and chilled on the beach after wetting our toesies in the Mediterranean.

We hopped on the ferry again to go to Vernazza. We spent some time there then headed to Manarola. From Manarola, we walked the Via dell'Amore (Road of Love) to the first village, Riomaggiore. All of it was so gorgeous. Everywhere you looked, it was like you were looking at a post card. I am SO GLAD we got to go and see such a breathtaking place.

Via dell'Amore

On the way back from Cinque Terre, we stopped in Pisa to see the infamous Leaning Tower. It's close to Florence but I hadn't been yet. Of course, I couldn't leave without taking one of those cliche, forced perspective pictures with the tower.

Urgh!

Pisa's Duomo

By the time we got back to Florence, it was pretty late, my legs felt like jello, and I was exhausted. It didn't help that I had to wake up early again today and hit the schoolwork hard but I survived.

Buon Viaggio


After class, we all took another stroll through the market for some dried fruit and a look at it during its less-crowded hours (It's a zoo on Saturdays!) then I escorted Dad and Lin to the train station. It was a fabulous weekend and I really enjoyed getting to spend time with the both of them and show them around my home away from home.

This week is going to be filled with nothing but schoolwork! I have so much going on in regards to papers, presentations and projects, and it seems like there isn't nearly enough time in the day to get it all done! But I can't believe this semester is almost over!

Arrivederci!
~Britt

Here Comes the Sun...?

My trip to the Amalfi Coast this weekend was my last overnight adventure of the semester. It's hard to believe that there are only 3 weekends left! The weather wasn't as warm as I would've liked for a trip to the beach (it ranged from chilly and cloudy to partly cloudy...at least it never rained!) but the southern coast of Italy is breathtaking. 

It was my 3rd trip and final trip with Bus2Alps (I also went with them to Interlaken and on my Spring Break adventure). We stayed in a hotel in Sorrento and visited different coastal towns each day. 

Capri

Our Friday excursion was to the island of Capri. We took a ferry from Sorrento and, when we arrived, we boarded private boats for a tour around the island and a rowboat voyage into the Blue Grotto. 

The entrance to the Blue Grotto is just big enough to get a tiny rowboat through. Even then, the four of us in the boat had to lay on top of each other. When we glided through the hole, the driver laid on top of us and pulled us through using a rope. Inside the Grotto, it was pitch black and all of the drivers were singing in Italian (but we still didn't tip them!). Our boat turned and we gazed at the blue water that was illuminated by the light shining through holes of the cave. It was gorgeous. Unfortunately, cameras tend to dislike dark caves and my shutter spazzed out. Regardless, you should get some sense of the grotto's beauty. 

When we arrived back at Marina Grande, we hiked about 20 minutes up some stairs to the town of Anacapri. If you're unfamiliar with the products of this region, Capri and Anacapri are famous for lemons and custom, handmade leather sandals. In just one little shop, you could sample lemon-infused chocolates, sip some limoncello (an Italian lemon liqueur), and have a cute, old Italian man make your sandals right in front of you. Unfortunately, the simplest of sandals were about €60. No thanks. 

I erroneously choose to believe that old Italian men like this
make the shoes that I buy at Target. Ignorance is bliss.

Positano

On Saturday, we visited the town of Positano. It's mostly a beach town but has many cute, handmade dress shops. We were supposed to take a private boat to a secluded beach to do some 40-foot cliff jumping but, much to my disappointment, the waters were too rough for safety. Apparently, you only land about 5 feet from the rocks and the Mediterranean is just too strong for its own good. 

It was partly cloudy all day so we laid on the beach for a bit but, by mid-afternoon, we were freezing and decided to go exploring the dress and ceramics shops of Positano. I didn't fulfill my goal of swimming in the Mediterranean this weekend but there's still time. Just putting my feet in the water nearly gave me hypothermia! 

Pompeii

On the way back to Florence on Sunday, we stopped in Pompeii. Last week was Culture Week in Italy so all museums (including the ruins of Pompeii) were free! It was interesting but, after about an hour of walking through the park, my roommate Ella and I were ready to get out of there. Being the morbid person that I tend to be, all I really wanted to see were the dead people. It's insane to look at the frozen figures and wonder what was going through their minds right before they died of suffocation. I thought, "How scared would I be if I saw Vesuvius erupting? How would it feel, knowing that my death is imminent and that there's nothing I can do about it?". Pretty profound to think about...

Southern Italia (Generally)

-Something you notice when traveling through Southern Italy is the fruit trees. There are lemon and orange trees EVERYWHERE! Moreover, all of the towns we visited had these GARGANTUAN lemons at the markets. We called them "Mutant lemons" and they were about as big as the average human head. I have never seen anything like them! 

To put things into perspective, to the left are avocados and
to the right are normal sized lemons. 

-Southern Italy (more specifically, eastern Sicily) is known for a frozen fruit drink called Granita. It's just fruit, fruit juice and ice and they are delicious! A typical combo is lemon granita topped with fresh squeezed blood orange juice. You haven't lived until you've eaten a blood orange. I'm planning on smuggling some through customs when I leave Italy and I PRAY that I can find them in the states. 

-Southern Italians are MUCH more friendly than Northern Italians. The relationship of Southerners and Northerners in Italy is almost a mirror image of the relationship between these 2 groups in the US. People in the North see themselves as more refined, intelligent, and mature. They are a bit rude and see those in the South as lesser Italians. Southern Italians tend to be more religious than in the North and they are also much more hospitable. Yeah, the southern men are more forward towards women, but it's nice to walk down the street and have people say "Buon Giorno" to you. You don't get that in the North of Italy. If I ever moved to Italy permanently, I'd definitely stay in the South. 

Il Capitano! Looks like a Luigi to me!

Dad and Lin come to visit this weekend and I will be playing the role of tour guide! I could not be more stoked to see them! Dad is bringing gum and that is a VERY good thing...I'm going through withdrawals. 

I can't wait to see this goofy lookin' guy!
Just kidding, Dad. You're a stud. 

Baci!

~Britt

Do as the Italians Do

One of the most common questions that people have been asking me about my experience in Italy so far is, "What are the people like?". This is a bit of a loaded question. Imagine if someone asked you, "What are Americans like?". It's a question that's impossible to answer without being a judgmental imbecile. However, despite my loathing of stereotypes and hasty generalizations, I will use this entry to list some of my observations.

Youth
-Not much different than Americans. We saw a large group of them in Piazza San Lorenzo one day. They all had their cliques, they all dressed similarly, and iPods/earbuds were not uncommon. Some things just don't change.
-Though I haven't really had any interaction with teenagers here, whenever I see a group of them, they always look up to no good.

Ragazzi (Young Men)
-Generally, you could replace "Young Men" with "horn dog". They are no stranger to the "cat call" and use no discretion when they see an attractive woman.
-Generally very smooth. They know what they're doing but, then again, I'm not sure how often it works.
-When one hears the phrase "Ciao Bella" (Hello Beautiful) from these guys, one might think it's a compliment. Think again.
-The decent Italian guys are exactly what I was hoping they'd be. When I was in a piazza between classes one day, I needed a seat and this very attractive Italian dude moved over for me. When I said, "Grazie", he replied with "You're welcome, dawling". *Melt*

Ragazze (Young Women)
-Though most of the aforementioned guys see young, naive American girls as their prey, Italian girls have to deal with their crap as well. Because of this, young Italian women often appear cold and unfriendly.
-They know that, when called by a man, they should just ignore him and keep walking (unlike many of my peers).
-Due to the fashionable nature and fitness of Italians, young women walking down the street often look like runway models.

Donne Vecchie (Older Women)
-There's a tendency for older women to be cold and sometimes rude. My vegetable vendor is not friendly at all and I would go as far as to say she's often mean.
-Exactly what I thought they'd be. They seem very traditional and a bit resistant to modernization of Italy.
-I think they're disappointed in the younger generation because young people don't have a lot of respect for those who are older (but that's everywhere). I once held the door for an old woman leaving a store, and I have never gotten that kind of reaction from someone just for opening a door for them. Her face it up, she rambled something in Italian and then she patted my hand and shoulder. She was speaking so quickly that I have no idea what she said but she was obviously very grateful. It was like one simple act restored her faith in young people. *Tips hat* Glad to be of service.

Uomi Vecchi (Older Men)
-Sometimes older men are just as pervy as the younger. And when a 50 year old comes onto you, it's a million times creepier than someone who's 25. I had a ridiculously weird experience with a gift shop worker at Palazzo Pitti. I won't go into details but it was 2 weeks ago and I'm still a little freaked.
-The middle-aged men often look like something straight from a mob movie and I haven't had a lot of interaction with them.
-Old Italian men are probably my favorite demographic (at least the ones that I have come in contact with). Generally, they are jovial, often smiling or singing, and seem to enjoy whatever they are doing. --
-The raddest Italians that I have met so far have both been at the market.
      >My fruit vendor is super friendly and always chooses the best fruit for me.
      >The guy that I buy chicken from is adorable and hilarious. He's probably about 65 years old,  
      doesn't speak a word of English and every time I go to the market, if he sees me walk by (even if I  
      don't buy anything from him), he always gets my attention. The other day, I was passing his booth
      and he said, "AMORE!" (LOVE!). Adorable.

Tutte Persone (All People...generally)
-Italians are crazy drivers. They don't stop for pedestrians (or, often, stoplights), they speed down roads barely wide enough for 2 bicycles, the drive on curbs, and they park anywhere they want. And that doesn't even begin to cover it.
-Drunkenness is never seen as a good thing in Italy. Drunken people are really frowned upon by society in general. Yes, Italians do enjoy wine but it is seen as part of a meal, not a separate entity. A glass with lunch and dinner satisfies them. I wish everyone adopted this idea.
-They are ALWAYS late. Life in Italy (with the exception of driving) is lived at a very leisurely pace. Buses, trains, and taxis are often late. Shows start late. Church starts late. Punctuality just isn't important to them. This would drive me INSANE at home but, here, I appreciate it.
-They have a sincere zest for life and try to get the most enjoyment out of everything. Almost everything is closed on Sunday and most business are closed on an additional day as well. Also, they observe siesta, so many places close between 1-3pm. There's that leisurely pace again.
-Italians are very fashionable. You never see them in tennis shoes, flip flops, shorts, or casual tees (unless at the beach). Daily wear here would probably be considered dressy/dressy-casual in the states. I love the fact that guys can be fashionable and maintain an awesome hairstyle without being considered gay or metrosexual. The physical appearance of Italian men has forever ruined me for men back home.

So, these are just some observations I've made this past month. None of it is scientific law but, hopefully, it will shed some light on life as Italians live it.

Ciao!
~Britt

La Mia Casa and What I've Learned Thus Far

Some of you have been asking to see some pictures of where I live. Well, ask and you shall receive. I should preface this by saying that our apartment is much better than what any of us expected. API prepared us for the worst and we were all pleasantly surprised when we got to the apartment.

Our apartment building. We're on the ground floor so we have a courtyard in lieu of a terrace. 

Our building was a palace at one point. 

The crazy old front door to our home.

Normally, I wouldn't add a pic of the bathroom but I feel like the bidet makes it necessary. We still don't know how to use it and we probably never will.

EPILOGUE:

I've been in Florence for about a week and here's what I've noticed so far:

1. If you've ever been to Europe, you know that it has a very distinct smell. Italy is no exception. The best way I can describe it is this: wet dog + pipe tobacco. It's an old smell but it smells like Europe.

2. Italians like cigarettes. Again, this is something Italy shares with most other nations in Western Europe but it's a bit surprising considering how progressive Europe is.

3. Driving in Italy would be a nightmare. There are traffic laws and stop lights but they're really only suggestions. Not even the crosswalks are safe for pedestrians.

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4. Nutella is EVERYWHERE! Don't get me wrong; I'm not complaining but you can actually get a 10 pound jar of the stuff here and it's way cheaper than in the states. A common snack in Florence is a waffle with Nutella on it. You see it everyday on the streets. 

5. Plumbing is WAY different here. No one wants to tear down palaces that are hundreds of years old so they just drill holes in the stone and put pipes in them. The sewage system here dates back to the Renaissance.

6. Italian men are extremely forward. I was warned about this by many different people before I left. If you watch How I Met Your Mother, think Barney Stinson times 10. My friend Ella and I were accosted a few nights ago by 2 men while walking around town but I told the dude that I had a boyfriend in Florence and they left us alone.

Ci vediamo! (Until tomorrow!)

~Britt